Taking the Waters

At the town's peak, in the twenties, as many as 150,000 tourists annually came to enjoy the purported health benefits of the city's mineral-rich alkaline waters, discovered in 1881. Dozens of hotels and spas sprang up, but the tourism boom was over by the early forties, hurt by the Depression and the war. Today, the Crazy Bath House, which opened in 2013 in an early-twentieth-century home, is the only place where you can soak in the liquid that built Mineral Wells: Crazy Water from the Famous Mineral Water Company's No. 3 well. The period renovation features so much shiplap that even Joanna Gaines might blanch. Make a spa appointment or stay in a guest room with a private tub. Don't mind the odor from the running tap. That's just the sulfate announcing itself. 609 NW First Ave.

Ghost Hunters

It may not be open, but the Baker Hotel remains downtown's biggest draw. Visitors gawk at its anomalous presence in a city of only about 15,000 residents; some have even trespassed to wander through the historic detritus (and dirt) that litters its floors. In 2012 paranormal enthusiast Angela Burns Morgan began to host ghost tours (no, she doesn't go inside). Leading groups on her Baker Hotel Ghost Walk most Saturday evenings, she guarantees you'll leave with a photo of a specter. We just wouldn't recommend fact-checking her tall tales. Ruins the fun. Begins outside the Baker Hotel. 200 E. Hubbard.

Mineral Wells
Climbers at Penitentiary Hollow at Lake Mineral Wells State Park. Photograph by Justin Clemons

Natural Attractions

The area has some of the best outdoor offerings in North Texas. Penitentiary Hollow at Lake Mineral Wells State Park and Trailway (100 Park Rd. 71) attracts rock climbers, while the twenty-mile trail, along a former railroad line, provides hikers, bikers, and horseback riders a scenic route from downtown Mineral Wells to Weatherford. Just outside town, wander among blooming flowers at the lovely Clark Gardens (567 Maddux Rd., Weatherford). Or hunt for evidence of ancient creatures at Mineral Wells Fossil Park (2375 Indian Creek Rd.).

Downtown Alfresco

Most businesses in the town center are closed at night. Among the few exceptions is Hole in the Wall Grill & Bier Garten, which serves dinner until 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays between mid-March and late October—weather permitting, since all of its seating is outside. Tucked away in a courtyard behind favorite local lunch spot Brazos Market & Bistro, the restaurant, which opened in 2017, offers a meat-centric menu of items grilled in the outdoor kitchen (highlights include the tenderloin kebab and Prime New York strip). With its live music and convivial atmosphere, it's the sort of place where it's easy to meet strangers. Just saunter up to a picnic table and ask anyone there whether the town's rebirth depends upon the Baker's reopening. They used to say yes, they'll tell you, but not anymore. 216 N. Oak Ave.

This article originally appeared in the March 2019 issue of Texas Monthlywith the headline "No Longer Waiting on the Baker." Subscribe today .